Fiji - Part II. Vanuabalavu, Viti Levu, Yasawas and Mamanucas

The small Pacific Nation of Fiji is not so small when you consider that its islands are scattered over 1,000,000 square miles surrounding the Koro Sea.  Some of the most remote villages are on the Islands of the Southern Lau Group which is as close to Tonga as it is to the capital of Fiji, and we were hoping to be able to make the easterly passage against the trades to get there with an opportune break in the weather.  On our return to SavuSavu, David made quick work of installing our new anchor windlass bearings, which helped, but did not fix, our problems there, and we topped up on provisions and were soon on our way again.  We made a rest stop in Qamea, east of Taveuni and spent a wonderful afternoon with the Mitchells, a welcoming local family in Namata Bay, before heading out into open ocean.  It was robust and squally weather on the day we chose to make the passage to Vanua Balavu but the winds were from a favorable direction and who knew when we would get another chance?  We were only about 10 NM miles from the Island of Qamea when we crossed paths with a pod of Pilot Whales marking an auspicious beginning to our adventure.  Our route zigzagged through a maze of expansive coral reefs and jagged outcrops of land, spits of deserted sandy islets and impressive volcanic islands with villages coming in and out of focus in the foggy misty haze.  It was as fascinating as it was exciting and good sailing most of the way.  By late afternoon we reached the subtly marked Nggilanngila Passage revealing an entrance into the vast lagoon.  Initially we headed to the northern anchorages which are hidden in deep ravines but changed our minds and opted for the more protected waters in the Bay of Islands.  It is one of the most breathtaking locations we have seen on our Pacific Journey, a place of extreme beauty both above and below the waterline.

There was only one sailboat at anchor when we arrived, a sloop owned by a New Zealand couple we had met at Paradise.  That was all about to change the next morning as a cavalcade of fresh sailboats appeared.  The onslaught descending on our quiet anchorage is not usually a happy vision for us, but in this case, it was a great group of cruiser friends we have known since French Polynesia.  It was an exquisite place to spend time together and enjoy this natural playground of the gods.   The coral reefs were abundant with kaleidoscopic life and seemingly untouched by man, ranking Fiji’s incomparable pristine environment as some of the best snorkeling and diving in the world for all of us.  And we had it all to ourselves for that amazing week.  In addition to snorkeling, there were caves to explore, paddle boarding, and sunset cocktails to enjoy in delightful company.  It was a magnificent sojourn so complete and indelible that when the winds never favored a trek further southeast to the remote islands of Vulaga and Ogea, we hardly felt cheated.  When the others moved on, David and I remained a few more glorious days in solitude to soak up the magic of this phenomenal garden.  The Bay of Islands with its statuesque rock guardians and lapping waters has been an absolute highlight for us as we knew it would be. 

 

We reluctantly (and manually) hoisted anchor and set off for our last visit to Paradise, the one in Taveuni, to say farewell to Alan and Terry and their wonderful staff before making a final stop in SavuSavu to pick up the rest of what we needed to complete the Windlass Repair for our anchoring system, a brand new gearbox that had been on order from Australia.  The time had come to move west, and the plans we had been brewing were starting to boil.  We had been paying close attention to the state of the Covid Pandemic on the biggest island of Viti Levu and the capital city of Suva.  The Fijian Ministry kept its population and visitors abreast of the Vaccination Efforts which was not insignificant considering the remote populations here.  The goals of gradually reopening the Western Islands and cities that had been in lockdown to local travel and eventual tourism was starting to attain the required numbers to reap rewards and by September 9th, the nation had reached 96.9% of its target population with a first dose of vaccine and 56.2% on its second dose, making its success rate one of the highest in the world.  This meant that soon travel would be much easier in the Western Division which is exactly where we needed and wanted to go.   As Fiji is in the Southern Cyclone Zone, its season was about to begin November 1st.  For all the cruising yachts with intentions to stay here, Viti Levu has the best options for a safe haven and it is best to stay within a prudent distance of one’s reserved plan during this time.  We had submitted the paperwork for a Cyclone Exemption for Australia soon after we arrived because it can take months for approval and we wanted to have that option.  We were also on the lists for Cyclone Safe Havens locally, because we wanted that option covered as well.  Fortunately, there are many islands to see in Western Fiji and the north coast of Viti Levu is a beautiful sail through the reefs and lagoons with numerous anchorages along the way.  So there was still plenty of scenic cruising grounds ahead of us while we looked at the options as they unfolded.  

We broke up the long passage around the extensive southern reefs of Vanua Levu with a stop at the island of Makogai which has a nice anchorage with a Giant Clam Farm.  That would be a farm of giant clams for those who are wondering, but we didn’t have the light or the time to see it.  We were hoping to stop at Ovalau, an island east of Viti Levu which was its original capital and has recently become a World Heritage Site.  It is reported to have an historic Wild West type of vibe to it with original store fronts and town center which has remained unchanged since the frontier days.  Sadly, when we checked with our agent, it was still in lockdown and we could only anchor in the bay.  We decided to move on and had a long sail ahead of us so we used our contingency plan and anchored in Nananu-i-Ra just in time for a spectacular sunset.  This is an area of obvious affluence and impressive coastal homes, most of which were boarded up as the playgrounds here have been closed for a while.   Next we rounded the northern coast for an all day sail through the reefs and banks. It was well marked with stunning topography all around. We finally anchored outside the Chanel to the Port of Denarau and were back in civilization once again. 

Sunset at Nanunu--Ra

Sunset over Malolo Lailai from Denarau

We had an idea of Port Denarau from some YouTube Vlogs we follow and somewhat knew what to expect.  It is a modern marina facility for both private yachts and commercial tourists vessels from flashy day trippers to inter island ferries and small cruise ships.  The marina itself is fully equipped with every amenity the cruising mind can imagine and a very competent staff.  Nearby is a shopping complex with an assortment of restaurants and bars and beyond all this is a manicured combination of private homes, golf courses and five star resorts.  It is all very impressive and during our many visits this last month, we have watched the progression of tiered openings leading up to a grand re-opening in December when the first international tourists are expected to arrive.   As we are in the Fiji Blue Lane for Covid Protocols I mentioned in the last blog, we were able to stay at the marina by late September and as long as our forays beyond the Port Complex were accompanied by the Navy, would not be required to quarantine.  All that has changed now, and there are more and more locals visiting the restaurants near the port and embarking on boat excursions before the tourist arrive.  We are all still wearing masks, and proof of vaccines are required at the restaurants for indoor dining, and we are all still using the Tracking Apps.  No one is complaining, we are all very happy to comply and keep each other safe, and it is working.  

Entrance to Port Denarau

Stock Photo of Denarau

   

Dining at an Indian Restaurant with Nicci and Haig

Spending time exploring the Yasawa Islands and the Mamanucas from our base in Denarau has been no hardship at all.  We initially did a weekend trip to Muscat Cove, popular with kite surfers and a windy but protected anchorage behind the reefs.  Yachties have their own beach bar at the resort marina and the cafe was open with delicious coffee and the egg and bacon sandwiches David favors.  Soon afterwards we took two trips through the Yasawa Chain visiting and revisiting our favorite spots and adding new ones to the list.  It was easy enough to get back to Denarau when we needed to top up on provisions and conduct any business which made using weather windows to our advantage less of an effort.  We usually started in Waya, and have stayed in most of the anchorages there and we loved the quaint Kuata Island nearby.  Some friendly villagers came out to meet us one day and gave us permission to go ashore to pick paw paws!  Another favorite was Drawaqa near Naviti Island.  That is the place to snorkel and sometimes a Manta or two can be seen in the pass.   We have seen more new (to us) fish here than anywhere else and that is already quite a statement!  We loved it every visit and met up with our cruiser friends again on the second and third round!  The Blue Lagoon is a great midway point and the first time we were there we met up with Jonathan from the Sea Mercy Organization which was initially set up to help those affected by Cyclone Yasa who are still suffering.  Johnathan helped us with donations to villagers we were not able to contribute in the Lau Group.  He gave us some valuable insight into the customs and mindset of village life and we were glad to have help to do it efficiently and correctly.  On the last trip, we made it all the way north to Yasawa Island and the sailing was excellent both ways!  Our mission was to visit the caves at Sawa-i- Lau and it was so worth the effort and another highlight for us.  Saving the Mamanucas for last, we spent a nourishing few days of rest at Mana (sometimes called Mama) Island.  We could paddle to the reef with our snorkel gear directly from the boat.  Nearby was Monuriki and Monu Islands where we took that fantastic drone footage and stopped at the sand spit for lunch and a swim.  

Sundowners with Jenevora and Janaki

David is happy!  Graham and Fergus? Meh.

Looking southwards from Naviti to Waya

Towards the end of our excursions in the Mamanucas, the Cyclone Exemptions for Australia had been approved.  Although we are sad to leave Fiji and sadly realizing that our time in this incredible country is coming to a close, this option is the best solution for us as we never wanted to put our boat in the path of a cyclone and have always steered her to safer waters as a rule.  We will also be completing the Pacific Journey we vowed to make back in January 2019.  The passage is roughly 1500 NM and will take about ten days, a moderate trip for us veterans now on S/V india.  We will moor our boat at the Rivergate Marina in Brisbane where she will be cared for when we are whisked away to quarantine for 14 days in a hotel.   It will be a fairly stark and eye opening arrival to a mainland in Covid times, something we have avoided during our escape far away in the Pacific for almost two years!  We will have plenty of time to reflect on all of that and make plans for our immediate and near term future then.  So as we wrap up our preparations for departure and say farewell to friends, we will keep you posted as to our progress across the seas.  David will do a daily log on the Iridium Go and provide the tracking information to you shortly.  In the meantime, we want to thank the Nation of Fiji and its inhabitants for all it has done for the yachting community by giving us a safe haven and a stunning environment to explore during these dire pandemic times and shining a warm and welcoming light on this friendly and fascinating country.  As one of the most amazing places we have ever visited, we highly recommend Fiji for anyone who loves the water.  The snorkeling and diving is unbelievable, beautiful beaches and scenic hikes are abundant, this place has everything, but most impressive is the culture and diversity that sets Fiji apart, it is unlike any other place in the world.