The Marquesas Part II - Te Fenua Enata

Once restocked and refueled, we set off for the Southern Isles.  We soon realized that the long sailing angle to Hiva Oa would be best achieved by a short 30 Mile Detour to the neighboring island of Ua Huka for any good results in the current winds.  So we set off on a fine Saturday morning motoring against the wind and found a gem of an anchorage in Anse Hatuana, where we were greeted by a massive Manta Ray while throwing out the anchor and gazed upon by wild goats while flying the drone prior to a magnificent sunset.

Eager to move on we were off to an early start and pleasant sail to an anchorage in Hiva-Oa we would remember mostly for a rock.  Baie Hanaiapa, tucked into the north shore was pretty in itself but at the entrance was a rather large and remarkable boulder.  We kept saying to each other that it looked like the bust of an African man or maybe a woman, and once you see it, it cannot be unseen.  Sure enough, Roche Fatutue, we found out, is known as the two faced rock.

From there it was a gentle relaxing downwind sail around the north side of Hiva-Oa to the island of Tatuata.  We wanted to stop somewhere nice for the evening before we braved the channel between the two islands first thing in the morning.  An idea of a few anchorages on Tatuata's north face was all we had as the lacerated terrain looked very much like the claw of a great beast and the small sandy inlets were supposedly hidden between the toes, at least we hoped.  Taking a chance on the one closest to the take off point for our morning's crossing provided reward and we liked it so much we stayed an extra night.

The big unknown in our schedule was whether we would find space to anchor inside the notoriously small harbor of Atuona. Not only is it a picturesque and friendly place with the quaint harbor and numerous scenic vistas, but it was made famous when the post impressionist painter Paul Gauguin came here to live in 1901.  Although I admire his work very much, what impresses me even more is the story of his life and travels.  It is well known that he was highly unappreciated for his contribution to artistic expression and widely misunderstood.  Certainly he was tragically ahead of his time.  He chose Tahiti to find inspiration in the primitive surroundings while discovering the savagery within himself in 1890.  Then chose Atuona, ten years later, to live out the rest of his days in self imposed exile and paint purely for his own pleasure.  He earned a reputation of being quite the rascal and rabble-rouser in both places.  It was well worth the effort to climb up the mountain roads to the graveyard on the hill to find his final resting place.  I had read that he treasured a particular statue of his own creation, Oviri (Tahitian for savage), a stoneware figure which held special meaning for him and he referred to as La Tueuse, or the Murderess.   He wanted it placed on his grave site.  It was.

Listening to that popular CSN song from the 70s since I was a teenager, I imagined myself sailing towards the Southern Cross on a Pacific voyage and making port in the islands with the majestic and exotic names.  The Marquesas has been on my Bucket List for years and Hanavave, also known as Baie Des Vierges, is exactly what I had always envisioned.  As we rounded the steep cliffs of Fatu Hiva, I could feel the excitement build as the famous conical mounds of the Bay of Virgins were, at last, unveiled.  It was the view I had been waiting for and the highlight, for me, of our voyage to the Marquesas.  In a very poignant moment, it also signified the end of our trip to French Polynesia.  Everything from this point would be backtracking to Nuku Hiva and our departure for Hawaii.

Te Fenua Enata, means 'the land of men', and is how the islands were known amongst the Polynesians.  They were a fierce warrior population whose valley civilizations were isolated from one another by high ridges and turbulent seas.  Warfare was vicious and prevalent and canibalism was an important incentive.  In one of the most murderous and shameful periods of contact between the Spanish and Marquesan warriors in 1595, Alvaro de Mendana's men began shooting natives on sight.  The subsequent depopulation of the 19th and 20th Centuries has left many of the valleys empty, the numerous ceremonial tohuas, meae, agricultural terraces and earthen fortifications half hidden in the jungle, evocative reminders of a vanished culture.

We made our way back to Tahuata stopping in many beautiful bays.  On one of our most memorable days, we explored the village of Vaitahu, stopping at Jimmy's for lunch.  During a conversation with a robust Marquesan, we realized we were talking to 'Jimmy' himself.  Not only was he the proprietor of the small but well appointed restaurant, but he was also the cook and entertainment, both with his animated stories about the past and his talent as a musician.  He told us the history of hiding the designs for traditional tattoos in tree carvings when the missionaries came and forbade the art and ritual of tattooing.  And he expanded on the Marquesan outlook of living for the day and welcoming and appreciating what comes in the moment.  When a large group of French guests arrived for lunch and placed their order, Jimmy picked up his ukulele and started a tune.  Soon he was joined by singers and other musicians playing instruments including spoons!  When I asked him later if the music was planned, he told me no.  It was part of living in the moment and all passersby are welcome to join in the music and fun.

We spent a few days in the sandy bays of Tahuata scrubbing the hulls and in preparations for our upcoming long passage.  We deflated the SUPs and swam ashore for the last time then set off to Nuku Hiva to stage for our exit.  Most of our time was spent collecting provisions and watching the weather systems but we had one last treat for ourselves.  Richard Dean was available to give us a tour of the biggest island before our departure and it was a grand day of sightseeing, taking photos of breathtaking views, and learning about the flora and fauna of the island and the region as well as the history.  It also included one of the best lunches we've had in Polynesia of Curried Goat and Local Pork 'au rhum' with taro and breadfruit.  Delicious!

Although The Societies and The Tuomotos certainly had abundant charm, The Marquesas stole my heart.  The five weeks we spent here was not long enough and we were sad to leave.  There are very few hotels in The Marquesas but each island has local pensions which are very nice and there are few places on any of the islands that is devoid of amazing views of the ocean and unique terrain.  I can only imagine that the people would welcome everyone as family because that is how we were treated everywhere.  Once, as we were hiking around Fatu Hiva, we encountered a barking dog.  A neighbor, pruning a tree nearby, yelled out that the dog was protecting his domain against the many 'voleurs' (thieves) that were about the land, before he abruptly burst into laughter.  Not only is there no crime here but the islanders genuinely appreciate and acknowledge the fact.

One could never be disappointed in visiting these uncommon islands.  As difficult as the travel logistics might prove, there is no other place remotely like it, pun intended.  We consider ourselves incredibly lucky to have had our chance to explore them and consider it an experience of a lifetime.