Epilogue 2020

 Taha'a

Continuing the tradition we started last year, we present to you our Epilogue 2020, where we venture to answer some questions and reflect on our year’s experiences, while hopefully giving some insight on what we’ve learned and how we want to continue the adventure into next year.  What makes 2020 so incredibly interesting is that it didn’t turn out as intended for any of us.  We have all needed to adapt, adjust and modify our plans in some very unusual ways.   Just this morning while walking around the shopping epicenter of Lahaina, newly opened to tourism and freshly populated with bright and colorfully masked families all doing regular activities in a highly irregular way, I remarked at how astonishing this new world of social distancing still seems to us, as we have largely avoided touristed areas until now.  And it reminded me also, how we saw a glimpse of this surreal world watching Asian travelers in India, the sub-continent, merely a few years ago, who always seemed to be wearing masks.

Reflecting back to this time last year, S/V india was freshly launched from the Varadero Boatyard on the popular Dutch Island of Aruba to its adjacent Marina.  David and I had celebrated our holidays earlier in December by traveling to the U.K. to meet our new granddaughter, Clarissa and new grandson, Rupert, and to spend time with our family there before stopping in Charleston to visit family and friends on our return.  How truly thankful we are, especially in retrospect, that we could spend that special time together.  We spent our actual Christmas covered in bottom paint and dust in the shipyard preparing india for our Pacific Passage in what looks to be an annual haul-out and check up that we’ve learned pays dividends in safety and minimizing maintenance and potential problems later.  We returned our catamaran to optimum condition and readiness in time to celebrate New Years with champagne and fireworks, the excitement for our forthcoming expeditions barely contained and our next destination Cartagena! Colombia!

Veradero Boatyard on New Years Eve 2019

Our exhilarating coastal sailing in Colombia and Panama is still spine-tingling and brings a fresh excitement to memory every time we think of it.  The extraordinary confluence of old and new in the enchanting city of Cartagena left us wanting so much more and vowing to return.  The moment we laid eyes on the Puente Atlantico in Colon, knowing that our eminent Panama Canal crossing had finally arrived was the fulfillment of a lifetime dream.  It was all so exciting and long awaited as the whole of 2019 was preparation for this moment.  We reserved our canal passage for 02-20-2020, as an auspicious date, and explored the obscure but friendly San Blas Islands while waiting for our line handlers and friends Andrea, Kalev, Angela and Rick to arrive.  As it turns out, they are the first and ONLY guests we’ve had stay aboard india in all this time.  Following some downtime in Las Perlas after the excitement of the Panama Canal, we returned to Panama City to make the final provisions for the Pacific Passage.  It was mid-March and when the WHO declared a Global Pandemic of Covid-19, we were in mid provision.  Choices were grinding to a halt and ours was to ramp up preparations and head to sea.  The most frightening aspect of the situation was that no one really knew the truth of the Pandemic.  Facts were elusive but anxiety and concern was rampant.  David and I felt that we were making the right choice in an immediate exodus and quarantine at sea and have the benefit of knowing that it was the right one now that it has clearly worked out very well for us.  But our departure into the unknown with limited contact and information from the outside world was an eerie and surreal 30 plus days coinciding with an epic sea adventure.  And we had no idea what we would find on the other side.

Cartagena!

Our favorite restaurant!

San Blas with a background of Panama

San Blas Islanders

Puente Atlantico

Our Motley Crew

Our first contact with another human came in the form of the young French Gendarmes we encountered on an illegal first landfall in the Tuamotos.  Their friendliness and reassurance did wonders for our moral because moments of trepidation concerning the pandemic had shadowed the celebration of our ambitious undertaking and joy of arrival.  From that moment onwards we felt embraced by the welcoming culture of Polynesia and awed by the sheer magnificence of beauty these multifaceted islands and atolls possess.  Enticed by the fragrance and fantastical notions of Tahiti we set forth to explore as countless seafarers before us have done.  We have wondered to what extent our cheerful and jubilant posts and blogs have annoyed our readers during these times of discontent, but concluded that maybe some good news and pretty pictures would be welcome respite from the continuing insanity of 2020.  Besides, these incredibly remote locations so dazzling in exquisite and breathtaking views practically demand to be shared and our ultimate goal in preserving our experience is for remembrance so we can enjoy them in our later years.  We do hope that you have enjoyed them along with us this year.

To summarize French Polynesia is not only difficult, but impossible, and again, our memories are available for us to review at any time.  So let me just reiterate how truly grateful we are to have had such an unimaginable seven months to immerse ourselves in an absolute paradise on earth.  It was more than double the amount of time we initially envisioned which allowed us to traverse a greater area than we would have done originally and doing anything less seems impossible to us now.  In fact, we have only seen a mere modicum of what French Polynesia has to offer and would do it all again and then some given the time.  It is hard to convey the vastness of this entire area.  That it takes days to travel from one archipelago to another provides some indication.  There is so much to see making choices difficult knowing one cannot ever see it all, but we are content that we experienced a great variety and cross section and wouldn’t trade the uniqueness of our personal voyages.  The unprecedented days that unfolded the Society Islands absent of tourism was an encounter unparalleled in modern times and truly a highlight due entirely to the pandemic.  But benefits often have a cost and the downside was that our contact and therefore our connection to the inhabitants was limited.  We regretfully did not interact with the Polynesians as we would have liked and as closely as we interacted with other communities in our past travels, especially India, the Sub-continent, which enhanced our knowledge and familiarity in untold proportions.  It was easier to be friendly in the more remote Tuamotos and the Marquesas and the natives we encountered infused our exploration with great personality and Joie de Vivre, entwining Polynesian hospitality with French flair.  It was a privilege to share in the pristine beauty of these sparsely populated outcrops.  The raw and untouched terrains and translucent waters teeming with colorful and tremendous aquatic life was a perquisite opportunity.  We have been honored.

Faa'a Anchorage in Tahiti with the backdrop of Mo'orea

Almost all of the Pacific Islands to the west of us have barricaded themselves against the pandemic by remaining closed to tourism and understandingly sealed their borders to protect a vulnerable citizenry.  It is somewhat easier to contain the virus on island nations with the ability to control immigration.  Since most of these nations benefit enormously from hospitality industries, it will be interesting to see what they decide for the 2021 season.  French Polynesia had only a handful of active cases and no deaths when they opened their borders to international flights on July 15th and they reached 16,696 cases and 113 deaths by Dec 28th.  Fiji opened its borders to cruising yachts by the end of summer.  To go there would have meant we would bypass many of the places we wanted to visit with an additional downside of not having an escape for cyclone season since New Zealand and Australia, which are outside the zone, have kept their borders closed as well.  By August we were decided on a detour to Hawaii for ourselves, since we had the American Option, and it has turned out to be a blessing in many ways.  Foremost, the Hawaiian Islands are beautiful, friendly and full of First World convenience, and unfortunately, those yachts choosing to sail to Fiji have just been hit by a Cat 5 Cyclone.

 

This brings us to a couple of questions we are asked such as what are our plans now and where will we go?  To answer; Our immediate plans are to be in Honululu by late January for our now annual haul-out.  We have a few items to attend below the waterline and will reapply coats of bottom paint while we’re at it.  India will need a good spring cleaning following that and we will be well positioned to continue our tour of the Hawaiian Islands and sail south again, eventually flipping hemispheres for re-entry to the South Pacific.  Our destinations will be contingent upon what countries become available to us for travel and whether we will be able to exit the cyclone zones in New Zealand or Australia next fall.  That would put us somewhat back on our original course, but only time and successful management of the Pandemic will tell.  We have discussed a route through Japan and Guam but it is a circumventer in opposition to favorable winds near the equator and now that Japan has increased its case load of infections it is less likely to happen.  So the simple answer is to carry on enjoying each day, as we have learned, and embrace the opportunities that present themselves as more information comes to light.

If we were to take a stab at the highlights of the year 2020, it would surely include all of the amazing sailing we have experienced on our india this year.  We have covered over 10,000 Nautical Miles in two oceans and both hemispheres crossing the equator twice.  We have have sailed in conditions just exciting enough to keep us on our toes, but thankfully have not encountered any life threatening storms this year.  We have met some super nice cruising sailors, such as ourselves, along the way and have enjoyed pleasant excursions and many meals and cocktails together.  We have parted ways and headed to the four winds but still keep in touch exchanging valuable information while following along on other’s journeys with great delight.  The incredible interactions with sea life is also high on our list.  From the tiniest playful reef fish to the menacing sharks, the graceful and mesmerizing Mantas and frolicking dolphins ever eager to keep us company at sea, to the colossal humpback whales; this year has been and unimaginable parade and we have been enthusiastic spectators.  As for the rest…we will let the photos speak for themselves.

We wish all of our friends and family a hopeful and prosperous and most importantly, a safe, New Year!

Devil Rays in Bora-Bra

Snorkeling in Taha'a

Maupiti

David with the Mantas

Heiva

Our spot at Tiputa Pass, Rangiroa

Beautiful Lagoons within a Lagoon at Rangiroa

Tetamanu at the South Pass in Fakarava

Sharks in Tahanea

Alone in Raroia

Hanavave in Fatu-Hiva

Dramatic Nuku-Hiva

Our biggest catch yet!

One of many incredible sunsets

The Marquesas Part II - Te Fenua Enata

Once restocked and refueled, we set off for the Southern Isles.  We soon realized that the long sailing angle to Hiva Oa would be best achieved by a short 30 Mile Detour to the neighboring island of Ua Huka for any good results in the current winds.  So we set off on a fine Saturday morning motoring against the wind and found a gem of an anchorage in Anse Hatuana, where we were greeted by a massive Manta Ray while throwing out the anchor and gazed upon by wild goats while flying the drone prior to a magnificent sunset.

Eager to move on we were off to an early start and pleasant sail to an anchorage in Hiva-Oa we would remember mostly for a rock.  Baie Hanaiapa, tucked into the north shore was pretty in itself but at the entrance was a rather large and remarkable boulder.  We kept saying to each other that it looked like the bust of an African man or maybe a woman, and once you see it, it cannot be unseen.  Sure enough, Roche Fatutue, we found out, is known as the two faced rock.

From there it was a gentle relaxing downwind sail around the north side of Hiva-Oa to the island of Tatuata.  We wanted to stop somewhere nice for the evening before we braved the channel between the two islands first thing in the morning.  An idea of a few anchorages on Tatuata's north face was all we had as the lacerated terrain looked very much like the claw of a great beast and the small sandy inlets were supposedly hidden between the toes, at least we hoped.  Taking a chance on the one closest to the take off point for our morning's crossing provided reward and we liked it so much we stayed an extra night.

The big unknown in our schedule was whether we would find space to anchor inside the notoriously small harbor of Atuona. Not only is it a picturesque and friendly place with the quaint harbor and numerous scenic vistas, but it was made famous when the post impressionist painter Paul Gauguin came here to live in 1901.  Although I admire his work very much, what impresses me even more is the story of his life and travels.  It is well known that he was highly unappreciated for his contribution to artistic expression and widely misunderstood.  Certainly he was tragically ahead of his time.  He chose Tahiti to find inspiration in the primitive surroundings while discovering the savagery within himself in 1890.  Then chose Atuona, ten years later, to live out the rest of his days in self imposed exile and paint purely for his own pleasure.  He earned a reputation of being quite the rascal and rabble-rouser in both places.  It was well worth the effort to climb up the mountain roads to the graveyard on the hill to find his final resting place.  I had read that he treasured a particular statue of his own creation, Oviri (Tahitian for savage), a stoneware figure which held special meaning for him and he referred to as La Tueuse, or the Murderess.   He wanted it placed on his grave site.  It was.

Listening to that popular CSN song from the 70s since I was a teenager, I imagined myself sailing towards the Southern Cross on a Pacific voyage and making port in the islands with the majestic and exotic names.  The Marquesas has been on my Bucket List for years and Hanavave, also known as Baie Des Vierges, is exactly what I had always envisioned.  As we rounded the steep cliffs of Fatu Hiva, I could feel the excitement build as the famous conical mounds of the Bay of Virgins were, at last, unveiled.  It was the view I had been waiting for and the highlight, for me, of our voyage to the Marquesas.  In a very poignant moment, it also signified the end of our trip to French Polynesia.  Everything from this point would be backtracking to Nuku Hiva and our departure for Hawaii.

Te Fenua Enata, means 'the land of men', and is how the islands were known amongst the Polynesians.  They were a fierce warrior population whose valley civilizations were isolated from one another by high ridges and turbulent seas.  Warfare was vicious and prevalent and canibalism was an important incentive.  In one of the most murderous and shameful periods of contact between the Spanish and Marquesan warriors in 1595, Alvaro de Mendana's men began shooting natives on sight.  The subsequent depopulation of the 19th and 20th Centuries has left many of the valleys empty, the numerous ceremonial tohuas, meae, agricultural terraces and earthen fortifications half hidden in the jungle, evocative reminders of a vanished culture.

We made our way back to Tahuata stopping in many beautiful bays.  On one of our most memorable days, we explored the village of Vaitahu, stopping at Jimmy's for lunch.  During a conversation with a robust Marquesan, we realized we were talking to 'Jimmy' himself.  Not only was he the proprietor of the small but well appointed restaurant, but he was also the cook and entertainment, both with his animated stories about the past and his talent as a musician.  He told us the history of hiding the designs for traditional tattoos in tree carvings when the missionaries came and forbade the art and ritual of tattooing.  And he expanded on the Marquesan outlook of living for the day and welcoming and appreciating what comes in the moment.  When a large group of French guests arrived for lunch and placed their order, Jimmy picked up his ukulele and started a tune.  Soon he was joined by singers and other musicians playing instruments including spoons!  When I asked him later if the music was planned, he told me no.  It was part of living in the moment and all passersby are welcome to join in the music and fun.

We spent a few days in the sandy bays of Tahuata scrubbing the hulls and in preparations for our upcoming long passage.  We deflated the SUPs and swam ashore for the last time then set off to Nuku Hiva to stage for our exit.  Most of our time was spent collecting provisions and watching the weather systems but we had one last treat for ourselves.  Richard Dean was available to give us a tour of the biggest island before our departure and it was a grand day of sightseeing, taking photos of breathtaking views, and learning about the flora and fauna of the island and the region as well as the history.  It also included one of the best lunches we've had in Polynesia of Curried Goat and Local Pork 'au rhum' with taro and breadfruit.  Delicious!

Although The Societies and The Tuomotos certainly had abundant charm, The Marquesas stole my heart.  The five weeks we spent here was not long enough and we were sad to leave.  There are very few hotels in The Marquesas but each island has local pensions which are very nice and there are few places on any of the islands that is devoid of amazing views of the ocean and unique terrain.  I can only imagine that the people would welcome everyone as family because that is how we were treated everywhere.  Once, as we were hiking around Fatu Hiva, we encountered a barking dog.  A neighbor, pruning a tree nearby, yelled out that the dog was protecting his domain against the many 'voleurs' (thieves) that were about the land, before he abruptly burst into laughter.  Not only is there no crime here but the islanders genuinely appreciate and acknowledge the fact.

One could never be disappointed in visiting these uncommon islands.  As difficult as the travel logistics might prove, there is no other place remotely like it, pun intended.  We consider ourselves incredibly lucky to have had our chance to explore them and consider it an experience of a lifetime.