Let me describe our explosive entrance. It was almost a month ago, but I remember it like yesterday. We had just departed Dominica around 09:30 on a breezy but pleasant morning. We were in great spirits because Mr. Bean was successful in filling our European propane tanks which we had been trying to fill since St. Martin, we were looking forward to Martinique, and all things French, and it looked like a great day for sailing. We had been motoring in the lee of Tete Morne for about half an hour when we both saw it! A floating green mess of fishing net directly in front of the boat. Full astern, we managed to stop in time and neutralize the propellors as we glided over it. David deftly pulled it out from under the starboard hull. It was a stinking mess but we were free of it. Disaster averted! Another reason we avoid motoring near islands at night, it was an ominous start to our day. But as we rounded the southern point of Dominica and the true winds became apparent, the excitement of full sails and record speeds prevailed and we were on our way! It is one of the alluring aspects of our adventure when we set sail to a new country after a week of short treks and days at anchor so when it is time to move on we are usually more than ready! We set the sails and the music and off we charged, just the two of us and our big smiles as we aligned our machine with nature.
It is easy to forget about everything small in the big open ocean and I believe that there is nothing more mood changing than an invigorating sail. Hours and hours of watching waves crashing and folding upon themselves, birds diving and gliding, fish flying, the limitless freedom of nothing but time allowing thoughts to drift aimlessly. The seas ever seductive on a beautiful summer day, winds lapping at the face, salt spray tickling the skin. "Oh, are those dark clouds forming over there? Is that a squall line in the distance? Do you think it's packing wind? Does it look like rain?" And that is how it happened when we were so close to our destination. BANG!
We really should know better. The rule is this: If you THINK you should reef, DO IT EARLY! Remember, a reef is reducing the area of sail exposed to the wind to stabilize the boat in weather. Immediately we took in our furling Genoa, the giant sail in front, but we were still doing an amazing 9 KTS on the full main even falling off of the wind! India was handling the seas that picked up rounding the north end of Martinique but it was becoming a scary ride in 30 KTS of wind! In haste, we attempted the first reef and with a slip of hand on the main halyard, the sail came crashing down. Something had broken. We weren't sure what or how bad but there was a lot of crashing and banging. The only thing to do was drop the rest of the sail and lash it down to the boom and let the motors carry our crippled boat and egos the rest of the way to the anchorage. Another lesson learned.
The rain was relentless. Like wet rats we stood dripping in the main cabin negotiating our way to the anchorage in low visibility. Slowly and cautiously we picked a spot on the narrow ledge of shallow waters in front of the dramatic backdrop of the historical town of St. Pierre and set the hook. We were no longer exposed to the wind and everything calmed as the squall passed on to the west. And what do good sailors do? Assess the damage and get to work. In all that mess on the deck, it turned out that a block pulley holding the support line for the lazy jacks on the spreader had exploded and that was all. All of the lines for the system that we had created and spliced held true and we had a replacement pulley. We were up and down the mast and back together in time for happy hour and St. Pierre is a fascinating stop.
Saint-Pierre was founded in 1635 and established as the first French colony in Martinique. It soon became the cultural and economic hub providing a very lively atmosphere and somewhat bacchanal environment in the 1800s. Full of celebrations, parades and carnivals, the city was known as the "Paris of the Carribbean" by its merchant traders and visitors until 1902 when it was entirely destroyed by the erruption of nearby Mount Pelee. This was not the slow death by pyroclastic flow that we talked about in regards to the city of Plymouth in Monserrat but a violent blast of raining hot ash and fatal gasses nearly 2000 degrees Fahrenheit eviscerating the city and its inhabitants in 60 seconds. It was so instantaneous that most of the citizens were found in astonishing scenes of demise as the city burned 28,000 of them and all were turned to stone as victims of the worst volcanic disaster of the 20th century. I know this is terribly macabre but I found it fascinating when I visited the museum 28 years ago and I couldn't wait for David to see it. But alas, they have renovated and modernised the museum and it now offers an experience of the former St. Pierre at the turn of the century with headphones along with the exhibits and a timeline. They have removed all those incredible, although morbid, photos for a more tasteful display. Oh well. This is another elaborate story of politics and corruption and how the loss of life might have been prevented. It was also the beginning of volcanology and the study of geophysical and geochemical phenomena. Read up on St. Pierre and Mount Pelee, I think you will find it fascinating too. The present day city is built upon its ruins and the old walls and structures are easily discoverable providing for an interesting and unique walk of an afternoon.
Le Carbet is a few short miles south of St. Pierre and we originally planned it as a lunch stop but loved it so much we stayed the night. There was no shortage of attractive restaurants and menus to choose from but we settled on the Beach Grille, one of the more popular venues. I had a typical Creole Whole Snapper Grillee and David had a Superburger all served with panache. We topped it off with an assorted desert tray served with the local sipping rhum for which Martinique is famous and spent the afternoon snorkeling and napping, it was Sunday after all.
The next morning took us to Schoelcher Bay just outside of the capital, Fort de France. We stayed for a swim but found the swell uncomfortable and moved on to the anchorage near the city and found that the beautiful view there under Fort Louis more than compensated for the roll. Besides, we were intent on provisioning the boat with as much French wine, beer and other gourmet items as we could find and carry so we were on a mission. Once we found the CarreFour, we made a couple of trips per day for many days!!!!! And a few stops at the Spice Market for fresh supplies and fruit and vegetables. They also had a marine supply area we could access by dingy so we bought some boat supplies and fishing gear too! This was needed to carry us through the slim times down south where supplies are limited.
I love Martinique and remember spending many nights anchored in the small bays across from the capital city particularly Anse a L'Ane. We wandered across the wide bay to Trois Ilets. We didn't like it, so moved on to Anse Mitan. Didn't like that either, the holding was bad. We finally ended up in Anse a L'Ane where I stayed before and that was nice but not quite as charming as I remembered. That's okay. One of the most excellent features of owning a sailboat is the ability to move when and where you want and stay only in the places you like, so we explored the town and took off again the next morning. We were set on Le Marin for our final destination in Martinique. We had discussed Anse D'Artlet which was recommended highly by our friend, Babette, but were so disappointed in all the other "Anses" that we thought we'd just pass it by all together and head on to Le Marin that morning but as we rounded the corner, so to speak, binoculars at the ready, we both wanted a closer look. Sure enough, complete left turn into the bay and that was our stop for the night. It turned out to be one of our favourites proving that an open mind is the best attitude for adventure. We even swam with a giant sea turtle!
We wrapped up our time in Martinique at Le Marin. It was ten miles to the east and sailing would not be possible but we wanted to see the Yachting Center of the French West Indies. When we were searching for potential catamarans to buy, several listings where available to see here. As it happened, we fell instantly in love with our india and fought hard to make a deal to our satisfaction, which turned out very well for us but we were very curious to see what is out there. The anchorage outside Saint Anne was huge and full of about 200 yachts of all types and sizes and we planted ourselves there too not wanting to follow the channel into the tight anchorage at Le Marin two miles away in an inlet. We went there the next morning and were amazed at how many additional boats were crammed inside, some for probably a very long time. It reminded me of Simpson Bay Lagoon, SXM in its heyday. We spent time walking the docks and were able to see all the beautiful catamarans side by side and for the first time make some real comparisons in make and size. Although we would love to have a bigger, newer boat, it wouldn't serve our particular needs for this adventure and we walked away feeling even more satisfied with our india. She is perfect for us.
And so it was that we arrived in Martinique with a bang but left in a happy whimper. Our grandson Rupert Anthony Knight was born on the 9th of August just before we sailed away to Saint Lucia.
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| View of the bay from the ruins of the old city. |
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| Walkway to higher roads. |
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| Old warehouse |
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| Theatre |
Le Carbet is a few short miles south of St. Pierre and we originally planned it as a lunch stop but loved it so much we stayed the night. There was no shortage of attractive restaurants and menus to choose from but we settled on the Beach Grille, one of the more popular venues. I had a typical Creole Whole Snapper Grillee and David had a Superburger all served with panache. We topped it off with an assorted desert tray served with the local sipping rhum for which Martinique is famous and spent the afternoon snorkeling and napping, it was Sunday after all.
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| One of my favourite meals so far! |
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| Dessert and Rhum is a must! |
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| Le Carbet |
The next morning took us to Schoelcher Bay just outside of the capital, Fort de France. We stayed for a swim but found the swell uncomfortable and moved on to the anchorage near the city and found that the beautiful view there under Fort Louis more than compensated for the roll. Besides, we were intent on provisioning the boat with as much French wine, beer and other gourmet items as we could find and carry so we were on a mission. Once we found the CarreFour, we made a couple of trips per day for many days!!!!! And a few stops at the Spice Market for fresh supplies and fruit and vegetables. They also had a marine supply area we could access by dingy so we bought some boat supplies and fishing gear too! This was needed to carry us through the slim times down south where supplies are limited.
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| Beautiful Fort De France |
I love Martinique and remember spending many nights anchored in the small bays across from the capital city particularly Anse a L'Ane. We wandered across the wide bay to Trois Ilets. We didn't like it, so moved on to Anse Mitan. Didn't like that either, the holding was bad. We finally ended up in Anse a L'Ane where I stayed before and that was nice but not quite as charming as I remembered. That's okay. One of the most excellent features of owning a sailboat is the ability to move when and where you want and stay only in the places you like, so we explored the town and took off again the next morning. We were set on Le Marin for our final destination in Martinique. We had discussed Anse D'Artlet which was recommended highly by our friend, Babette, but were so disappointed in all the other "Anses" that we thought we'd just pass it by all together and head on to Le Marin that morning but as we rounded the corner, so to speak, binoculars at the ready, we both wanted a closer look. Sure enough, complete left turn into the bay and that was our stop for the night. It turned out to be one of our favourites proving that an open mind is the best attitude for adventure. We even swam with a giant sea turtle!
We wrapped up our time in Martinique at Le Marin. It was ten miles to the east and sailing would not be possible but we wanted to see the Yachting Center of the French West Indies. When we were searching for potential catamarans to buy, several listings where available to see here. As it happened, we fell instantly in love with our india and fought hard to make a deal to our satisfaction, which turned out very well for us but we were very curious to see what is out there. The anchorage outside Saint Anne was huge and full of about 200 yachts of all types and sizes and we planted ourselves there too not wanting to follow the channel into the tight anchorage at Le Marin two miles away in an inlet. We went there the next morning and were amazed at how many additional boats were crammed inside, some for probably a very long time. It reminded me of Simpson Bay Lagoon, SXM in its heyday. We spent time walking the docks and were able to see all the beautiful catamarans side by side and for the first time make some real comparisons in make and size. Although we would love to have a bigger, newer boat, it wouldn't serve our particular needs for this adventure and we walked away feeling even more satisfied with our india. She is perfect for us.
And so it was that we arrived in Martinique with a bang but left in a happy whimper. Our grandson Rupert Anthony Knight was born on the 9th of August just before we sailed away to Saint Lucia.
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| Octopus at the Spice Market |
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| Town Center at Anse A L'Ane |
Just finished reading the blog while I was texting with you. Wow, what an adventure!!!! So happy you didn't have more damage than you did. You guys have really traveled this past month or so. St. Pierre and the eruption of Pelee were unreal descriptions. I really have to go on the web to read all about this. Your pics were beautiful, as usual, and now I'm hungry, but not for octopus!! I think India is perfect for you guys. She has weathered storms and given you such adventures. Hopefully, all she gives you now are easy sails.
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